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The Lapita voyage was an adventurous journey that followed a migration route of the ancient Polynesians. It was the result of a long fascination of the beautiful Islands of Anuta and Tikopia which had been visited previously by Hanneke Boon and James Warram. (For those of you who dont know they are, their website may be found at http://wharram.com.) Hanneke had heart surgery and when she was recovering she had a vision of building a canoe that would be used by these two beautiful Islands. I would say tropical paradise, as they are still probably the last of places on earth to be uninfluenced by the rapid processes of globalization.
Klaus Hypendahl a German who had previously also visited these two Islands made contact with James and Hanneke and their vision came to fruition when finally after all the hard work had been completed the 2 canoes Lapita Anuta and Lapita Tikopia were ready to set sail from the Phillipines, end of Oct 2008.
I joined them on this wonderful journey from Honiara on the 5th of February 2009. Many wonderful people I met also who joined the expedition and it was a privilege for me to sail with them. Klaus was an experienced sailor and captain and it was good to sail with him on Lapita Tikopia. On our last 2 legs I joined Lapita Anuta captained by Hanneke Boon with fellow Polynesian Carlton from Anuta. I must say Hanneke, although a woman, shes really tough and I was glad to sail on her boat. She just gets things moving, no nonsense type of person. From Lata we sailed for Vanikolo, we spent a few days there and we were ready to set sail for Anuta, 170 miles east of Vanikolo. This leg now was where traditional navigation was to be used, so with watches coming off and compasses removed we were ready to sail, Tokelau style.
We left Vanikolo Thursday afternoon and backsighted from the channel we had left. Friday the Island was still visible at least 45 miles with our canoe following an east north east. With nightfall I kept an eye on tolu or in english Orion. I steered for 3 hours but stayed up most of the night to keep our bearing, I was very sleepy but I was thankful I kept thinking of Elia Tinielu and Palau Kolo master fisherman and Tautai from Tokelau who had previously both passed away but envisioning a navigational revival to be accomplished again by Tokelau. For me throughout the journey they were a source of inspiration always watching me, encouraging me.
Sailing went well, until we came across a squall and with no bearings the ocean was now our highway and we aligned with a current, coming 50 degrees from north. The sun became visible for a few minutes and I judged that it was around 3pm and the sun gave us a bearing, adjusting our canoe 20 degrees north of east.
In the evening there was no wind until nightfall and only the eastern heavens were visible,only just. It was very very quite on that ocean, only our voices we can hear but it was amazing, amalgamating with the sea, I was always at awe of this special feeling...amazing how our ancient ancestors felt traversing such open seas boldly.
Saturday there was no wind and the journey was very very slow!night fell on us and we steered by a star near Melemele but canoe moving smoothly and we were travelling at least 3 knots.
Sunday morning Tikopia was to our starboard side, a sign we were heading the right course. Pressing ahead on a dark cloudy day, night was approaching but we had a clear western and southern sky.
We steered using Tulalupe as a reference to the horizon. Into the night we put the main sail down and hoisted the small sail heading north and drifting so we may not over run Anuta. Anuta is quite small; it has a diameter of only about 820 yards (750 m).
It was like a fog out there that late night but I had the current and a rare glimpse of the moon for direction. We left On Thursday from Vanikolo and it was now early Monday morning, we were tired and I was worried that I may have missed our target 750 meters of land on an open ocean!
The horizon was dark red and the sun was again bringing a new day. Dolphins encircled our canoe, what a view...they were beautiful to watch. After at least 40 minutes I kept a sturdy view at the horizon praying we will view land. Amazingly 3 dolphins were floating on our starboard side all pointing in one direction, not moving! and when I looked, there it was... a dark shade like a cloud on the horizon. After an hour there she was, the most beautiful sight I'll never forget, Anuta in front of us!
God gave us a successful landfall and it was with his guidance that we made land. For whatever purpose he led me on this expedition, time is yet to unfold but truly I will always be thankful that God did not forsake our canoe on this specific journey as storms may well have hindered or even diverted our canoe.
Finally I must thank Hanneke for her trust in me to navigate our canoe but importantly for her support throughout the journey.
The crew was just amazing, young James our great cook who always made delicious meals and always supportive, thanks bro. Ingo the cameraman who was such a dedicated person to get the shots he needed and very helpful on the canoe, and to Carlton, bro you were amazing, dedicated and never gave up. James Wharram, many thanks for your advice and support. Thanks also to Professor Atholl Anderson and Keith who were just amazing people to meet and talk to. Klaus thank you also, because if you hadn't invited me to join in the first place I would not have been able to participate in such an amazing journey. Thanks also to Rudy and Eve and everyone I met, God bless you all.
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